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Lifestyle

EYES are the windows to your soul!

July 3, 2019 by Jeff Taylor Leave a Comment

Remember the old saying “eyes are the window to your soul”, well they were right and with the latest eye enhancements options out there, you have no excuse for not showing off your beautiful orbs!

Be a bit dramatic – Really how show off your eyes with lash extensions.  Available in many lengths. The first appointment will take about 1 hour.  Your lash technician will walk you through the lash options specifically length and style (curly, slightly curled).  You may be tempted to go for the longest lashes available but beware if you wear sunglasses you will experience a bit of rubbing as your lashes will hit the front of lens making blinking a bit challenging.  If in doubt regarding the length and style then follow the advice of your lash technician as they will know what is best to support both your eye shape, face size and lifestyle.

A full set of lashes can cost between $100 – $250.  You may think it is a bit pricey but trust me it is so worth it!  Be ready to be amazed as you can now walk out the door with just a dusting of blush and a bit of gloss.  Get ready to look fabulous with little to no prep time!  To maintain your gorgeous lashes you will need to come back in for refills.  Like anything else hair related your eyelashes go through a growing phase which can last roughly 8 to 10 weeks, then they fall out and regenerate.  For the new lashes growing in you will need to apply a new lash extension so plan to revisit your lash tech every two to three weeks.  A “fill-in”
 as they are called can cost $45 – 75 per visit. 

One bit of advice, if you want your fabulous lashes to stay amazing then follow the care instructions given to you by your lash tech .  For example, stay away from facial Oils that are all the rage . They are not your friends and can negatively impact the adhesive used to apply your lashes.  And for those eye rubbers out there STOP.  Be gentle to your eyes, aggressive rubbing or washing in that area can dislodge your lashes forcing you to look a bit lopsided giving you a few long lashes followed by little mini-lashes.    You made the investment so try to take care!

Our favorite superstar of the lash world is Sheby McKiney from the famed Lashing Out located in Dallas. Check her out at lashingout.com

It is time to be bold – It is time to embrace a more natural, fluffy brow look and microblading techs have created new techniques that deliver on this new trend.  Working outside the lines Micro-blading techs can mimic a more natural brow look using a hand-held tool that houses up to 14 blades.  Multiple pigments are then implanted using small slices into the top skin layer.  These super fine slices mimic the look of your natural hair and will maintain their overall look for upwards of 6 months. 

I know you must be thinking “slices, OMG….slices”.  The treatment is next to painless and at its worst mimics the feeling of a papercut.  The most important bit of advice I have for you is be sure to visit with an experienced technician.  Research their credentials, look through their before and after pictures  and review the techs testimonials.  Expect to pay  $500- $800 for an experienced micro-blade technician.  

Want to enhance your eyes. Then check out these Gina’s Platform technicians near you.

Gina Rivera

Gina Rivera

Beauty Icon and Expert

Gina Rivera skyrocketed to success when the company she founded in 2007, Phenix Salon Suites, became the fastest-growing salon suite company in the beauty industry. With more than 300 locations nationally and international expansion occurring in the UK, Entrepreneur Magazine named Phenix Salon Suites a Top 500 Franchise list seven years running.

    Filed Under: Lifestyle

    How To Keep It Real With Spring Style Trends

    July 1, 2019 by Jeff Taylor Leave a Comment

    These suite renter’s top tips help you translate the trends for real-life clients.

    Buzz cuts and hoards of hair extensions look cool on the runways but how can you interpret the best spring trends for the clients in your suite? Choose the ones that play to your expertise and apply them for individuality.

    Customized Dimension

    Marco Pelusi takes the “defined pieces” trend and uses it blend gray.

    Celebrity colorist and rental studio owner Marco Pelusi, Marco Pelusi Hair Studio, West Hollywood, CA, says that for spring, highlights and lowlights are becoming more defined and ombré is evolving. However, this doesn’t mean “chunky” color because most clients like it natural, he cautions.

    “Using defined dimension is a great way to blend gray,” says Pelusi. “Ombré is not good for clients who have a relatively strong percentage of gray; they need highlights at the scalp area to blend the gray. There is also way to water down the trend by combining it with ombré or balayage. Soon, there will be a middle ground between an ombré and a defined highlight.”

    At Salons by JC in Columbia, MD, Lindsay Bodner and Lauren Logan, who share the Elle Beauty Hair Studio suite, say that ombré and balayage are just the dimensional trends their clients want. For spring 2017, says Logan, brighter and warmer balayage is kicking cool tones to the curb.

    “Caramel tones and balayage highlights that add movement are perfect for clients who you know will go darker with their color in winter,” notes Logan, who is an American Board Certified Haircolorist. “There are no real trends in cuts right now—it’s all about brighter color and styling techniques that show off movement and texture.”

    Adds Bodner, “Trend interpretations are always based on hair texture, eye color and accenting the cheekbones.”

    It’s easy to “up-trend” any client’s look with face-framing balayage highlights, say the duo. Don’t add too many if the client wants lower maintenance; add more for clients with curl.

    Bread-and-butter clients need color that works with their skin tones, says Jen Thomas.

    Track Global, Act Local

    Jen Thomas, whose Sola Salon Suite, Jen Thomas Hairfiber Artist, is in Overland Park, KS, says that taking part in local fashion shows keeps her abreast of trends, and that it’s her “beauty duty” to interpret them to suit her clients’ lifestyles, frequency of visits and willingness to adhere to home care.

    “While Blorange is a hit on the fashion pages, I consider skin tones and how clients can wear a version of the color,” explains Thomas. “For brunettes, my inspiration comes from a toffee bar. Chocolate toffee is a rich brown but hidden within it are rich, tempered golds, which will catch the light and peek through without upsetting the balance of pink undertones in the skin.”

    So, high-fashion trends may be exciting but translating them for real clients who pay the bills involves skin tone and hair type, lifestyle and commitment to upkeep. What are the best places to discover trends in the first place?

    Soft balayage should enhance movement, says Lindsay Bodner.

    Pelusi is right in the mix at every trade show, checking out the latest work and promoting his own hair care line. He also hosts education right in his rental studio—most recently for Aloxxi’s Andiamo Express Permanent Colour.

    Bodner and Logan say they rely on websites like behindthechair and fashion-trend sites, as well as social media posts by celebrity stylists. While the traditional magazines like Vogue and Elle tell Thomas what’s happening with fashions, she looks for clues as to what’s upstream for hair.

    “This year I am seeing details in clothing, meaning that hair will be simpler so as not to compete,” says Thomas. “The more bohemian fashions call for a looser yet controlled look.”

    Thanks to Facebook, Thomas also networks with stylists worldwide, watching Australian and Turkish stylists for trends in dressing hair.

    “I keep a mannequin in my room for practicing the looks,” she adds. “I also watch European stylists, so I can see what colors are coming next season. Paying close attention to the release of the new Pantone trends helps me see where home decorating and clothing accessory trends are going—hair will be a reflection of these.” (Think bright, vivid or earthy for 2017.)

    Be in Touch with the Final Touch

    Whether you “do it all” or not, knowing makeup trends can help you suggest lipstick shades that work with a new hair color and more. Accomplished freelance makeup artist Shannon Nemec, who is currently considering a suite rental around her Kansas City, KS, area says that she follows professional makeup Facebook groups and attends The Makeup Show, which includes education on trends and how to incorporate them.

    Shannon Nemec takes the makeup trend in metallics and makes it wearable. (Photo: Rachel Rigler Photography)

    “This spring and summer, look to metallics for eye shadows, eyeliner, lip color and gloss; a neutral eye with a bold red lip or natural makeup—all with good skin,” says Nemec. “For younger clients, a wash of neutral metallic eye shadow keeps them on-trend in a wearable way. If they want something bolder, go with a graphic metallic eyeliner or lip color.”

    Because metallics tend to accentuate fine lines and wrinkles, she shifts tactics for more mature clients.

    “Older clients can still be trendy with a soft neutral eye shadow, a touch of eyeliner and mascara, and a bold red lip,” notes Nemec. “Regardless of age or the look you are going for, the basis for any good makeup application is a good skincare regime.”

    Pair up and trend-trade with estheticians and makeup artists, and you’ll be able to talk about it all, like the savvy personal beauty advisor that today’s clients want.

    Gina Rivera

    Gina Rivera

    Beauty Icon and Expert

    Gina Rivera skyrocketed to success when the company she founded in 2007, Phenix Salon Suites, became the fastest-growing salon suite company in the beauty industry. With more than 300 locations nationally and international expansion occurring in the UK, Entrepreneur Magazine named Phenix Salon Suites a Top 500 Franchise list seven years running.

      Filed Under: Lifestyle

      Salon Suite Operations Newest Tact is to Beef-Up Education

      June 29, 2019 by Jeff Taylor Leave a Comment

      Today, Suite Renters Have More Choices Than Ever in Free or Affordable Training.

      Suite renters want educational opportunities that are convenient, affordable and fun, and suite owners are obliging. Naturally, manufacturers want to connect with suite renters directly, so they were the first to send educators marching in. But now, private educators, renters who are also trainers and even educational reimbursements are coming into play. What’s notable here: Employee-stylists often complain about mandatory training sessions they aren’t paid to attend, but suite renters, who opt-in, are demanding and getting the quality education they need.

      Stage Shows and Beyond

      Thanks to economies of scale, Sola Salon Studios offers the Holy Grail: The Sola Sessions, which feature several educators and are held in hotel ballrooms across the country. Vendors often have an area for their own “Side Sessions” supplemental education, and nearly 200 salon professionals gathered at the most recent one in Dallas. Phenix Salon Suites held its first “Education Experience” in late 2015, featuring workshops from its own Phenix International Artistic Team. But even smaller operations can help renters stay up to date. For instance, Style Suites notes at its website that it reimburses renters for attendance at a hair show or workshop of their choice and offers the opportunity to have all of Ohio’s CE hours paid for by the company.

      Jon Haigwood, president of the new Salon Independence in Columbus, IN, is a licensed cosmetologist and former salon owner who remains part owner of Salon Concepts. In his own operation, he applies everything he has learned in his extensive beauty-industry career. He says that education hasn’t changed much; perhaps, it’s just more in-demand in suites. To that end, he offers renters various options. The most common education classes are coordinated through himself and local distributors.

      Jon Haigwood says renters at Salon Independence can request classes. They currently favor ones in high-ticket hair extensions and smoothing services.

      “First we find a venue, then, working with distributors and manufacturers, we secure top-quality educators and sell discounted tickets to our renters,” says Haigwood. “We usually invite stylists from outside our operation to create awareness of our educational agenda. We also hold several smaller, hands-on classes within our building that are typically free to our stylists. Additionally, local accountants will conduct free educational seminars for our stylists.”

      Technical Versus Business Training

      At iStudio Salons, the marketing department once taught many of the official classes that were tailored to help renters succeed. According to Brittani Johnson, iStudio Salons’ Marketing Manager, these included Intro to Studio Ownership, Tips and Tricks to Generate New Clients, Beginner Social Media, Intermediate Social Media, Advanced Social Media, Website Design & Development and iStudio Salons Website, which taught renters how complete a successful profile on the corporate site. While these were held at the corporate-office conference room, Pivot Point haircutting classes were held in a hotel.

      Pivot Point’s cutting classes got a big turnout at iStudio Salons.

      “The cutting classes were $75 each and the others were free,” says Johnson. “In the end, the Pivot Point classes were the most popular. Now we’re revamping our educational offerings. We want to bring in experts who relate to salon professionals, who also provide content that will be of value to them.

      “We’re arranging speakers for a business-management component that’s geared toward small business owners and will include social-media marketing. We are attempting to have the educators within our community teach others, as well. Additionally, we’re looking into a social-media training portal geared towards hairstylists, which we can provide to our renters. In the interim, we’re scheduling one-on-one sessions with our salon professionals to provide marketing guidance.”

      The Future of Education

      While many manufacturers are investing heavily in on-line education and videos, hairdressers who check them out and share them still crave local hands-on learning classes. When they pay to travel to the big shows, they want to see friends and industry social media stars. And while most say they want education to be “pure business” what they really mean is that they don’t want technical classes to be all about product sales. When it comes to learning about accounting and running a business, creative beauty pros want education to be visual, not boring.

      “Stylists are ‘hands-on’ individuals who learn more effectively at a hands-on event,” notes Haigwood. “I believe videos are an effective way to gain stylists’ interest, as well as to educate them in areas of product knowledge. But when it comes to creativity, hands-on education will always prevail.”

      Adds Johnson, “In the future, I see our education being easy and accessible for our salon professionals. We genuinely care about them and their success, and want to provide valuable education that re-energizes them and helps them build their craft.”

      Gina Rivera

      Gina Rivera

      Beauty Icon and Expert

      Gina Rivera skyrocketed to success when the company she founded in 2007, Phenix Salon Suites, became the fastest-growing salon suite company in the beauty industry. With more than 300 locations nationally and international expansion occurring in the UK, Entrepreneur Magazine named Phenix Salon Suites a Top 500 Franchise list seven years running.

        Filed Under: Lifestyle

        The Blondes of Summer

        June 28, 2019 by Jeff Taylor Leave a Comment

        Clients who want full-head highlights or just a blonde flavor will love these simple summer ideas.

        Super-slim slices, face-framing foils, balayage and cooler highlights that anticipate inevitable sun-lightening are some of your best bets for summertime-natural blondes that allow easy color changes come fall. Here, Abby Morganstein, who gets raving Yelp reviews for her Concierge Hair Services studio in Rockville, MD, shares her secrets to smartly summerized blondes:

        Curly Blonde Balayage

        Moderately curly or wavy hair can be a challenge when summer humidity makes it frizz. On top of it, Level 4/5 brunettes just can’t wait for highlights, which could abrade the cuticle even more. For beautiful, sun-kissed highlights sans damage, Morganstein always adds Olaplex to her formula. For the curly girl shown here,

        When hair is naturally curly, too-fine highlights won’t get seen. Think wider, bigger and bolder. Hair by Abby Morganstein.

        She mixed Wella Blondor Freelights with 40-volume developer and Olaplex, then processed for 45 minutes.

        “For fast, natural-looking highlights, I use a 1½-inch wide balayage brush with ends cut on a diagonal,” says Morganstein. “First, I blow-dry the hair smooth for control. Then, working from the bottom up, I take zigzag partings that are 1½ to 2-inches wide, hold my brush vertically—parallel with the hair—and apply the formula at the midshaft before sweeping down to the ends. Below the parietal, I use wider sections and diffuse the lightener to avoid any demarcation lines.”

        For a better hairline blend, start at the midshaft as usual but after sweeping downward, blend upward, closer to the scalp. “Hair that is brightest at the ends is always the most natural-looking,” she adds.

        Style curl looser and darker roots become more obvious, acting as a reminder that post-summer shifts to darker Autumn hues will be easy. Hair by Abby Morganstein.

        Tip: For super curl, hand paint right on the curls to accent and define natural movement, texture, key curves and dynamic shapes. Foiling looks unnatural with this hair; tri-toned highlights looks best, and color, not bleach, helps tighter curls and coils stay healthier.

        Foiling for Control

        Special-occasion clients, like June brides, want guarantees that their highlights will showcase their face and be perfectly placed. In this instance, reach for foils. “I always make sure my slicing is paper thin and leave enough free hair on both sides of the foils,” says Morganstein.

        Predetermine highlight sizes based on the hairstyle. Here, wider blonde pieces appear near the face and are reiterated behind the ear. @abbymorganstein.

        When a natural Level 6 wants a full head of foils, start with lightener, 30-volume developer and a bonder. Morganstein adds 40-volume developer to the mixture as she works, so that all the foils complete processing at the same time. For consistent work, the lightening formula should be creamy, not runny or thick.

        For special occasion blondes, keep darker roots to a minimum at the more visible part line. @abbymorganstein.

        For the bride shown here, Morganstein alternated macro- and micro-slicing. “I followed the part line as I worked,” explains Morganstein. “First, I applied the lighter about one inch off the scalp down, then I gradually worked my way up to the root area. I also kicked the ends of the hair out of the foil. After folding it, I positioned the tail of my comb underneath the lip and gently pushed up before folding the sides.”

        Tip: For clients who want more obvious highlights with contrast, rely on foils but keep the overall feeling natural with balanced placement and wider pieces near the face.

        Your Secret Summer Weapons

        When your client wants to go full-on blonde just for summer and you don’t want to do a double process, reach for hair extensions. For a natural Level 5 with some highlights, Morganstein adds a dozen or so sliced foils on top to facilitate blending. Then she adds platinum blonde and beige Cinderella hair extensions.

        Longer hair extensions can overwhelm the natural hair so much, you just need a few top foils for a blonde transformation. Don’t forget to take a photo! @abbymorganstein.

        “They’re great for creating a strong blonde look without using chemicals,” she says. “Using individual extensions with an organic protein-molded bond can also protect the natural hair because all you need is a medium heat setting to get the bonds to mold around the hair.”

        Tip: Smaller attachment sites around the face and on top make wearing individual extensions more comfortable. Where needed, cut the extensions in half before you install them and apply heat for less time—a count of four instead of six.

        “When clients want highlights before summer, keep in mind that they will be in the sun and most likely, extend retouches,” says Morganstein. “To accommodate the warm undertones that will be exposed within a month, lift slightly higher than your desired goal. If you are working in air conditioning, which can affect processing times, put the client under a dryer for a few minutes. Also, when working with lightening products that contain blue, don’t be fooled into thinking brass has been eliminated—before rinsing, dry the first foil and double check it.”

        Gina Rivera

        Gina Rivera

        Beauty Icon and Expert

        Gina Rivera skyrocketed to success when the company she founded in 2007, Phenix Salon Suites, became the fastest-growing salon suite company in the beauty industry. With more than 300 locations nationally and international expansion occurring in the UK, Entrepreneur Magazine named Phenix Salon Suites a Top 500 Franchise list seven years running.

          Filed Under: Hair Care, Lifestyle

          What Renters Need To Know About LLCs

          June 25, 2019 by Jeff Taylor Leave a Comment

          It’s easy to form an LLC but what it can and can’t do might surprise you.

          Susan Karow says you can even file an LLC to “hold” a name if you plan on renting in the future.

          Susan Karow formed an LLC to protect her suite’s business name, Simply Gorgeous. Located inside Salon de Luxe in Sun Prairie, WI, Simply Gorgeous is branded as the place where everyone feels gorgeous.

          Says Karow, “I did it right after I opened my own suite in 2011. My accountant recommended it but not for financial reasons. I had mistakenly named my salon the same as another, and becoming an LLC protects the name of my business. I had to go through rebranding once and didn’t want to do it again!”

          How easy was it? Karow says it took her half an hour to fill out an online form. “You do have to file an annual report, but that’s really easy,” she adds.

          The DYI Conundrum

          Lots of websites let you create an LLC online. Just Google LLC and your state, and you’ll find plenty of options. Fees can be as low as $25 on state sites; national Legal Zoom charges $149 plus fees. But, is really that simple? Naturally, the answer is yes and no.

          Some states require a professional license for a professional LLC, others have just one type. Many states have LLC renewal fees. At IncFile.com, an interactive map lets you see the basics in your state—for instance, the state fee in IL is $500 and you must have an in-state agent. But, there’s no indication how current some online information is, and some sites contradict one another.

          Says John Blake, CPA, who is a partner with the NJ-based accounting firm of Klatzkin & Company LLP, where he specializes in taxation of small businesses, closely held companies and high-net-worth individuals, “ It is easy to miss something that is state specific if you use a legal website. We always tell our clients to make sure that they have consulted with a business attorney to make sure that they have set up their business the way that is best for them. Usually, state websites are helpful but you have to dig around to find what you are looking for.”

          Accountant or CPA to start? CPA John Blake notes that he has a license on the line, just like a licensed stylist, plus his offices aren’t “seasonal” like many come-and-go accountants.

          When it comes to state-to-state differences, he says, just a few factors to be aware of include: “Whether or not they are subject to sales tax. Whether or not the state has a franchise tax which is different than income tax. Whether or not there is an annual report that needs to be filed.

          And, is there an added tax for a professional license?”

          The upshot: Nearly all suite renters who replied to a Facbook post about forming an LLC said they did it online, but most professionals recommend using a business attorney—and not because they just want your money. In fact, many renters may be forming LLCs for all the wrong reasons.

          Myths and Reality

          According to Blake, from a tax perspective, there is no difference between a single-member LLC and a self-employed individual. “One of the biggest adjustments that has to be made is the fact that the owner now has to make estimated tax payments quarterly,” he notes.

          However, there are some major myths. For instance, the idea that an LLC protects your personal assets if you are ever sued. Not so, says Blake, “Generally speaking, if the owner of a single-member LLC does something that is negligent, then he or she can be sued personally.”

          An LLC stands for Limited Liability Corporation and it’s the limited part renters need to understand. An LLC acts as a “veil” of protection against business liabilities (loans, debts), not a “wall.” A legal tactic called “piercing the corporate veil” is often sought in court by those looking to hold an LLC owner personally responsible for things like debts. Usually, it comes down to creditors showing that the LLC and you are not really separate and distinct. If you paid business bills with a personal check, accepted business checks not made out to the LLC, did something illegal or mixed assets and finances (among other things), chances are good your “veil” will be pierced.

          Additionally, in every state, those with an LLC are still personally liable for wrongdoing committed in the course of business, such as burning a client’s scalp due to negligence. If your LLC has more than one member, this gets even more complex.

          Blake notes that renters who share a suite and an LLC should have a partnership agreement and understand that a partnership tax return must be filed. These are just a few of the reasons you should speak to a business attorney about forming the type of business that offers the protection you want.

          Another myth is that you can deduct more business expenses if you form an LLC. (This idea actually appeared on a salon-industry focused website.) Says Blake, “It is not true that you can deduct more expenses as a LLC vs. a self-employed individual. You can deduct the same expenses on both, as long as you can justify them as legitimate business expenses.”

          What’s In A Name

          Lastly comes Karow’s name protection. She achieved her goal in that she’ll never have to rebrand again, because state agencies won’t allow two businesses to have the same name. However, her name claim only applies to her home state and formal business entities—not individuals.

          No matter unless you have clients flying in from Paris. But if you think that one day, you’ll launch an international hair care brand, there are other ways to protect your business name. Start here for a few ideas, then talk to an attorney.

          NOTE: This article is not intended as legal advice. It is always recommended that you work with a local business attorney when forming a legal entity.

          Gina Rivera

          Gina Rivera

          Beauty Icon and Expert

          Gina Rivera skyrocketed to success when the company she founded in 2007, Phenix Salon Suites, became the fastest-growing salon suite company in the beauty industry. With more than 300 locations nationally and international expansion occurring in the UK, Entrepreneur Magazine named Phenix Salon Suites a Top 500 Franchise list seven years running.

            Filed Under: Lifestyle

            Managing Intense Color Changes

            June 23, 2019 by Jeff Taylor Leave a Comment

            When clients make frequent or extreme color changes, rely on these techniques.

            Redken national artist and owner of Brilla, A Salon by Alma Gonzales (located in Salons by JC, Highland Park, IL), who is available to teach at salon suite buildings throughout IL, often gets asked how to handle extreme color changes. “The most important thing,” she says, “is to maintain the integrity of the hair.” Her front-line defenses are pH-Bonder and deep conditioning treatments that allow clients to continue to color play.

            Frequent Fashion Color Changes

            Would you dare take a client from brunette with faded balayage/ombré to turquoise blue…and then to intense magenta? That’s just what Gonzalez did without a worry for her client.

            From Blonde Balayage to Turquoise to Red? Try the steps Redken national artist Alma Gonzalez uses.

            To start, she brought up the blonde with Redken Flash Lift and 40-volume developer, then processed for 45 minutes. (Add a bonder based on your brand’s instructions.)

            “I used the formula in key darker areas, then applied Post-Service pH-Bonder and followed up with two deep conditioning treatments,“ notes Gonzalez.

            Next, she created a custom mix of Redken City Beats Highline Green and Broadway Blue (2:1).

            Tip: To avoid the trashed-hair syndrome that can result from extreme lifting and following with permanent color, use direct dyes that are intended to fade in about eight weeks. You can also try your semi-permanent line.

            Once the color fades back to blonde, there’s bound to be some green residue. Gonzalez removed it with an all-over misting of Redken Pre-Art Clarifying Treatment, processed for 10-minutes under the dryer. Then, she emulsified her shampoo, rinsed and applied Blonde Idol Base Breaker with 20-volume developer. After 10 minutes, she had a perfectly fresh palette. (Alternately, try a soap cap, followed by a formula that gently lifts up to two levels.)

            “After towel drying, I mixed one part City Beats Midtown Magenta with two parts Big Apple Red and processed for 30 minutes,” adds Gonzalez. “Using direct dyes makes frequent color changes easy because they just fade away. If you were to use a bleach mixture and follow with an intense permanent color, removing it with lightener would sink the color molecules deeper into the cuticle.”

            Maximum-Option Color

            When going from box color to a fashion hue, lighten only as much as necessary. You’ll maintain the hair’s integrity and allow for maximum options later on. @Alma_Gonzalez13

            When a client with red box color wants a rich shade with multiple highlights, combining a permanent new base with direct dyes that are used in foils allows future color changes. Options include changing the highlight shades, leaving highlights blonde once they fade away (avoid colors that leave green behind for this approach) or even returning to a more natural base. Here are Gonzalez’s formulas her the client who started with home hair color, was lifted to blonde and then got the new fashion shades.

            To Remove Box Color: Redken Blonde Icing with 30-volume developer and pH-Bonder, processed for 45 minutes to yellow

            Base: Chromatics 5N + 4NW with 10-volume developer in a 1:1 ratio.

            Foiled Highlights: Alternate Midtown Magenta, Broadway Blue, Big Apple Red, Indigo Skyline

            “Since these highlights will fade to an orangey-yellow, you can slightly cool them or allow them to continue to fade to blonder tones,” says Gonzalez.

            The Ultimate Color-Change Challenge

            Many colorists are afraid to take darker-haired clients to a true pearl blonde. What’s critical, says Gonzalez, is protecting the hair’s health and being ready to re-adjust the tone on the spot. She even fearlessly double-processes twice in one day.

            “Even dark blonde has a lot of melanin in it, which makes it hard to get the yellow out,” observes Gonzales. “Be ready to adjust developer volumes and timing, and tone twice. Even then, you may not get it perfect the first time.” For a client whose hair was a natural Level 6/7, here’s her perfect formula fix:

            Make clients with pearl-blonde ambitions happy by allowing time for same-day tonal adjustments. @Alma_Gonzalez13

            Pre-Lightening Formulas: For the midshaft and ends, mix Blonde Icing with 30-volume developer in a 1:2 ratio. For the root/scalp area, use 20-volume developer. Process both for 45 full minutes, then rinse, treat the hair using Post-Service pH-Bonder; shampoo and deep condition twice. (Gonzalez uses Redken Chemistry).

            Toner: Redken SEQ 09P (Pearl)

            Notice that in the tri-photo shown here, the smaller shot in the lower left shows remaining yellow. To remove it during the same appointment, use a 20-volume developer lightening formula, apply it from scalp to ends and process for 30 additional minutes before toning again. Then follow with the complete post-color regimen. The results are a perfect pearlized shade.

            “Always protect these delicate tones with shampoos like Color Extend and color-neutralizing conditioners that contain a hint of purple, like Blonde Idol,” adds Gonzalez.

            As for “where can she go from here,” this client can now maintain her pearl blonde, move into more golden or ashier shades or even give silver a spin. Of course, she can also go darker—just be sure to do it gradually. Once a client has been this blonde, she won’t be happy with a too-dark tint-back, as hundreds of colorists can attest.

            Gina Rivera

            Gina Rivera

            Beauty Icon and Expert

            Gina Rivera skyrocketed to success when the company she founded in 2007, Phenix Salon Suites, became the fastest-growing salon suite company in the beauty industry. With more than 300 locations nationally and international expansion occurring in the UK, Entrepreneur Magazine named Phenix Salon Suites a Top 500 Franchise list seven years running.

              Filed Under: Hair Care, Lifestyle

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