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Credit To: Hana Hong on realsimple.com
We all learn how to wash our hair around the same time we learn the ABCs, but unlike the alphabet, it turns out that the everyday ritual isn’t that elementary. Even the little things in your sudsing process can have big consequences for your scalp and hair (see: hair loss and dandruff), and taking into account the types of shampoos, temperature of the water, and your washing schedule (did we mention co-washing?), doing it right can be a real headache. But, like anything, there is always room for improvement, and it’s fairly easy to do that—once you know you’re making mistakes, that is. With that in mind, we asked hairstylists (aka the people professionally trained in the art of shampooing) what the most common hair-washing mistakes are so that we don’t make them.
Ah, the age-old debate of how often to wash your hair. Not washing often can leave your scalp itchy and irritated, but washing too often can leave your scalp dry and producing more oil to compensate.
Although we wish there was a universal number we could give you, experts say that the frequency of shampooing hair is reliant on a variety of things, including both hair texture and lifestyle. “If you have fine, oily hair, I would suggest washing every other day. This is also the best practice for people with dandruff,” says Paul Wintner, professional hairstylist and educator for Alterna Haircare. “For people with a normal to dry scalp, or curly/coily hair, you should stretch out your wash days to one or two times a week maximum.” Regardless of hair type, try to avoid washing every day if possible.
Dry shampoo is a godsend for greasy, second-day hair, but overusing it can cause buildup, leaving the strands limp and clogging the hair follicles on the scalp. “I usually suggest only using dry shampoo one to two times between washes,” says Wintner. If you want to reset your style to extend time between wash days, he recommends Alterna Meltaway No Rinse Micellar Cleanser ($29; ulta.com), a no-rinse cleanser that uses micellar technology to trap oil and sweat from the hair, allowing you to easily brush it away.
RELATED: How Much Dry Shampoo Is Too Much?
It’s easy to get impatient in the shower (especially if you’re a chronic alarm snoozer), but truth is that every strand needs to be soaking wet in order to get a deep clean. “Not doing so will make it more difficult to spread the product through your hair and cause you to overuse shampoo,” says Wintner. Make sure your hair is completely wet in order to allow the shampoo to emulsify.
We all love a vigorous head scrub at the salon, but don’t do it every day at home. Wintner says massaging too hard can cause breakage (read: hair loss) and even scratches on the scalp that lead to scarring. “The best practice is to use the pads of your fingertips and not your fingernails to scrub your scalp. Using circular motions with slight pressure will be enough to cleanse the scalp and hair,” he says.
Focus on the roots, not the ends. Intentionally emulsifying the ends can cause unwanted tangling and knots. Lather and massage the roots to mid lengths, then let the water naturally drive the soap down when you rinse.
Fast and furious is a great tagline, but not a great motto for washing your hair. If you’re in and out of the shower in five minutes, you’re probably not doing it right. “It’s important to take enough time to scrub and massage the scalp well,” says professional hairstylist Gina Rivera. “This is important because massaging generates blood flow, which contributes to a healthy scalp. A healthy scalp makes for healthy hair.” (Not thoroughly cleansing clogged hair follicles can also lead to hair loss if not careful.) Wintner says a good practice is to shampoo with circular motions all over your scalp for two to three minutes.
While it’s a beauty myth that your hair gets used to the same shampoo over time, you still want to switch things up occasionally. Your hair needs can shift with the changing seasons, styling habits, and coloring. For example, a smoothing shampoo might come in handy in the humid summer months, while a volumizing shampoo is probably better for the drier winter season. Wintner recommends switching off between a clarifying shampoo and moisturizing shampoo to reduce buildup, and of course, a color-treated shampoo if your hair is dyed.
Now that we know what not to do, see below for a stylist-approved, step-by-step tutorial for how to wash and condition your hair.
Water is the first step of loosening up oil, dirt, and product buildup on your hair. Water is also vital for getting a rich lather, notes Lorean Cairns, co-founder and creative director of Fox & Jane. “Most shampoos are similar to a concentrate, so water helps dilute it so you’re able to easily spread it across the scalp.” Use warm water at this step to open up the cuticle.
Wintner suggests using a dime to quarter-sized amount, depending on hair length and density, and only adding more if needed. Since oil is produced at the scalp, you want to make sure you suds up there first. Start at the hairline and massage back towards your ends.
A vigorous scrub is great for scalp health but can be too much for strands. You don’t want to rough up the cuticle, so try to gently “massage” the shampoo into your stands, not “scrunch” it.
If it’s been a while since you last washed your hair, the first shampoo application might not be as effective. Do it twice if you started with very greasy or product-laden hair. A good indicator of it’s still dirty after the first shampoo is if it doesn’t produce a robust lather.
Your conditioner won’t be able to do its job if you have leftover shampoo lying around. Rinse thoroughly for at least three minutes—focusing on the back of the head and nape of the neck—to make sure all residue is gone. Cairns also advises wringing out hair thoroughly before applying conditioner so as to not dilute it.
No matter your hair type or texture, keeping conditioner strictly on your ends is the best practice. After applying conditioner to your ends, use your fingers like a comb to rake the product through the length of hair. This will help evenly distribute product and remove tangles.
We all prefer warm water, but experts recommend dialing down the temperature for a final rinse. If you can stand it, rinsing out conditioner with cool water helps seal in nutrients and smooth the cuticle for shiny, smooth hair. It might not be the most comfortable, but your post-shower sheen will thank you.
Read Gina’s story as she was recently featured in Insights for Success Magazine!
My family has been in the beauty industry since 1929. I grew up sweeping hair off of the floors of my parent’s salon. I always loved the artistry of the business as well as the process involved with making people feel and look better. Move forward 40 years and I am the founder of one of the most successful suite concepts in the industry, Phenix Salon Suites.
The beauty business is a fast paced and rapidly moving industry. There is always something new coming down the pipeline and if you are not in front of it, you’re behind it. When I started Phenix Salon Suites I was looking to serve Lifestyle Professionals in their pursuit to become sole beauty proprietors. I realized that most beauty and wellness professionals partially entered the business because they wanted to work for themselves. I also understood that undertaking opening a multi-chair or multi-station salon required financial resources that many people simply didn’t have.
This was an insight that I was lucky enough to understand because I had worked behind the chair for many years and I had spent my life growing up in the industry. I believe this is still a trend that we are seeing. I recall when the suite concept was the elephant in the room. Meaning, we were beginning to have an impact on the traditional salon model but we had not yet emerged as a player in the industry.
Today, in the United States, the suite concept has taken off like wild-fire with multiple salon suite concepts spanning across the country. I am certain this is a trend that we will continue to see. With the emergence of the Corona-19 pandemic, the need for social distancing and additional hygiene practices has become very important. The suite concept is a perfect solution to this dilemma for the beauty and lifestyle professional.
As a suite owner, a professional services one client at a time in their suite. Items such as common waiting areas, shared wash bowls and equipment that is used by multiple parties are eliminated. In addition, the professional may customize their space to their liking with their own décor. They may set their own hours, establish their own prices, and use products of their choice. Each location offers on-site laundry and restroom facilities and, at the Phenix locations, a receptionist is available to greet and direct clients when they enter the store. And, all of this is affordable at the fraction of the cost of building out a full scale salon.
We are also witnessing trends with investors that are seeking out a franchise investment. The salon suite concept is a much more hands off model compared to many other franchise opportunities such as fast food. Once a location is built out and suites are leased, a franchisee is actually encouraged to step back and allow the professionals to operate their own businesses. Unlike many models, the requirement of being on location daily is far reduced.
Along with this benefit, the model doesn’t require the franchisee to purchase an abundance of products that they are continuously required to use in order to operate. The individual salon professionals purchase their own products and equipment for daily use which far reduces the investment required o maintain the suite model on an ongoing basis. As the suite concept continues to be investigated by interested parties, it’s certain that it will be a popular option for many.
I also believe we can anticipate seeing the suite concept experience international expansion in the next 12-24 months. Phenix Salon Suites has just extended our footprint to include the United Kingdom (UK), with our first store currently under construction in Manchester and several others in the planning stages. As of now we understand that there will be a period of educating professionals on the concept, however, I believe with certainty that the suite concept will be equally embraced in the UK. We also have a variety of other international markets underway which we expect to be very successful.
As we progress, technology has also become more and more significant in the industry. The cell phone has brought beauty into a world where salon and lifestyle professionals can now manage their businesses from the ease of their phone. And, it’s clearly notable that hardback appointment books of the past are headed for the shelf. Professionals are seeking interactive solutions which allow them to communicate easily with their clients. They are seeking simple touch booking and scheduling features that allow consumers to schedule their own appointments. They want to be able to order products with a push of a button and email receipts out without being burdened with paper.
To meet this need, last year my company developed a business app for the beauty and lifestyle professional called Gina’s Platform. The platform is 100% free to any beauty or lifestyle professional in the industry and it has a comprehensive booking and scheduling system as well as a POS (point of sale) system with some of the lowest rates in the industry. In addition, it has options for following trending beauty news, accessing online education and purchasing product as well as extensive client communication features. The app even has financial reporting features for end of the year tax time.
As mentioned previously, the beauty industry is a well-oiled, fast moving, machine. It’s always important to be looking ahead and leading the pack if possible.
